Maalie

All good things...

2011-05-12T12:00:00.000-07:00

It is with great sadness that I have to bring to a close this remarkable record of outstanding achievement.

Jim Fowler passed away on Thursday 12th May 2011 while doing what he had recently come to love best - kayak fishing on Coniston Water in the English Lake District. He leaves behind his two sons Alun and Carwyn, his sister Jill and his two adoring grandchildren, Jimmy and Heledd.

Gone but not forgotten, he will continue to be an inspiration to all who knew him.

Many thanks for the interest, support and stimulation you've provided through these pages; it is a comfort to know our loss is shared by so many wonderful friends.

Alun

Outback wildlife

2011-05-02T18:13:00.000-07:00

Following previous floods further north in Queensland, the flood waters drained into the Darling River which overflowed its banks into the surrounding flood plain, covering huge areas. When Simon and I arrived in the Kinchega National Park, the water levels were starting to subside, leaving areas of muddy, boggy ground with lagoons that were drying out.

You can see the muddy margin of this lagoon

on the far side, as it begins to dry out

Simon tinkers with his engine before a tour of the

Kinchega National Park to observe the rich wildlife

Parts of the higher ground that was innundated

is now rendered to an impassable muddy surface

There are numerous wet areas that were previously dry.

This has resulted in population explosions of fish,

and the birds that feed on them.

As the lagoons dry out, the huge numbers of fish become concentrated,

making them easy prey for the voracious Great White Egrets,

and many other fish-eating birds

A mob of Pelicans circle round looking for somewhere
to join in the feeding bonanza

The Australian Darter uses its dagger-sharp bill to spear fish

Whistling Kites sit around the margins waiting to swoop

and grab a hapless fish from the water...

...whilst the Black Kite is more of a scavenger,

snatching fish from other birds, or tucking into dying fish

that have been stranded in shallow water as the lagoons dry out

Seed-eating birds, like these Red-tailed Black Cockatoos,

also benefit from the flooding when vegetation flourishes

Small flocks of Budgerigars appeared

as migrating flocks dispersed

Many land animals will have drowned during the flooding,

but this Stumpy-tailed Lizard evidently found a dry place to survive

This Laughing Kookaburra strayed too close

without realising that 'Fowler' means 'birdcatcher'

This is my final post on an Australian theme.

I should like to thank my hosts

Simon, Bonny, Rosalie, Susana and David

most sincerely for their warm and generous welcome

and for making me feel one of the family.

Next stop Japan!

Outback Kinchega

2011-04-30T04:41:00.000-07:00

After a day on the Southern Ocean, it was time to head back towards the centre of Australia and the outback.

The roads can be long, straight and deserted.

It is not unusal to drive for 250 miles in a straight line

without seeing another car!

In the harsh desert conditions of the Australian outback,

Simon's 6-Cylinder factory-turbo Toyota Landcruiser

is an appropriate vehicle for exploration

Our destination was the Kinchega National Park near Menindee...

...where our accommodation was the old sheep-shearers quarters
of the former woolshed built in 1850,
now preserved as a historic heritage site

This year the desert has come to life with fresh growth after recent rains

Flood waters from further north in Queensland drain into the River Darling

that flows through the Kinchega National Park.

Lakes that have been dry for over a decade are now brimming full

as the River Darling flowed into the flood plain

The gum trees, now with wet roots, have lush new growth

I shall show more pictures of the Kinchega lakes

and some of the wildlife in my next post

Pelagic trip

2011-04-23T19:46:00.000-07:00

On 23rd April Simon and I participated in a pelagic boat trip operated by the Southern Ocean Seabird Study Association (SOSSA), leaving Wollongong Harbour to cruise some 25 miles (30km) to beyond the continental shelf to 34.38S, 151.12 E. What birds might be seen depends on the time of year and we were delighted to record about 18 species of seabird from the boat.

On leaving the harbour, Crested Terns were flying past the boat

Clear of land, throwing out offal and food scraps
attracted many seabirds close to the boat,

even close enough for catching and ringing

Among the first to be seen were Flesh-footed shearwaters...

...and the more elegant Wedge-tailed Shearwaters

A rare Providence Petrel puts in an appearance

Further out to sea, the first Albatrosses appear

Black-browed Albatross - note the characteristic under-wing pattern,

compared with...

...the Shy Albatross

which has a much narrower black margin to the under-wing.

Some Campbell Island Albatrosses show up,

distinguished from the closely-related

Black-browed by the conspicuous yellow eye...

The yellow staring eyes of the Campbell Island Albatross,

compare with...

...the darker eye of the Black-browed

A Campbell Island Albatross is caught and I was allowed to ring this bird

A few Yellow-nosed Albatrosses appear

A single Buller's Albatross graced us with its presence

The real excitement of the day occured when a Great Shearwater flew

in and circled the boat.

This species is extremely rare in Australian waters

The bird was enticed close to the boat with bait and was skillfully caught and ringed

We thoroughly enjoyed the whole excursion which was excellently organised, with good company, friendly and extremely knowledgable & helpful leaders. The trip is excellent value for money and we recommend it unreservedly to anyone who loves the sea and seabirds.

Visit the SOSSA Webesite (and make bookings) here.

Wollemi

2011-04-21T14:03:00.000-07:00

Our next adventure in Australia was two days camping int the Wollemi National Park. It is the second largest national park in New South Wales, and contains some of the largest wilderness area of mountain and forest. It lies 129 kilometres northwest of Sydney and forms part of the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area. Our camping site was at an especially attractive part called Dunn's Swamp (see a film about the swamp here).

The forest and Canyons of the Wollemi National Park, New South Wales, Australia

Dunn's Swamp fows through the centre of the canyon

Curious eroded rock formations known as the Pagodas

The Cudgegong River in full flow after recent rain in the canyon of Dunn's Swamp

Bird life included the Purple Swamp Hen...

The cheeky Laughing Kookaburra

that woke us at dawn with its cackling laughing cries...

And the charming Flame Robin

When darkness falls, Simon replaces his binoculars with a head-torch

and prepares a barbeque of lamb chops and bacon.

Vegetables were represented by fried onion rings.

The beer contains yeast products.

Sydney

2011-04-19T01:16:00.000-07:00

Sydney Harbour Bridge, Opera House and Botanic gardens.

That's an item on my "Ought to See" list ticked off.

Now, please may we now go back into the outback?

Willandra

2011-04-17T13:49:00.000-07:00

Our first foray into the Australian outback was four days camping in the Willandra National Park. The park is a former sheep station, that was famous for its wool. Now, the homestead and surrounding plains habitat are being restored to its original state and the biodiversity is recovering. Read more about the history of the Willandra National Park.

Sunrise over a backwater of the Willandra Creek

The shearing sheds and buildings of the former sheep station

are preserved for posterity in the Willandra National Park

Secluded billabongs are a haven for wildlife

The principal habitat under conservation are the grassy plains

which stretch to the horizon

After a decade of drought, recent rains have brought

life and colour back to the grasslands

With our two vehicles we set of for a safari

around the Willandra National Park

The grasslands are a habitat for Emu and...

Red Kangaroo

After the safari, David fishes for carp in a billabong...

...while Bonny and Simon set up a barbecue

under the shade of a coolibah tree...

...watched over by inquisitive Gallahs

At the end of the day, a blazing sunset over the Willandra plains

Under the Southern Cross

2011-04-12T23:36:00.000-07:00

My mate Simon met me at Sydney airport at 6.00am on 12th April and whisked straight to his home in Bowen Mountain in the the Blue Mountains of New South Wales, Australia, where I was able to catch up on some sleep and enjoy a walk in the nearby forest with his son David.

As evening fell, the constellation of the Southern Cross was rising.

The two bright stars at the bottom right (The Pointers)

point upwards towards the Southern Cross...

...prompting Simon to fire up his luxury barbeque
to sizzle up some some giant steaks

The girls had prepared for my arrival with some Australian delicacies:
Tim Tams, Freddo Frogs, Cherry Ripes
and of course a case of Victorian Bitter ale

There was even time to find some Australian wildlife icons:

Laughing Kookaburra

Black Swan

Swamp Wallaby

Tomorrow we leave for the Outback

Vanda Station, Antarctica

2011-04-08T13:06:00.000-07:00

By popular demand, here are some more previously unpublished pictures of my work as Leader of Vanda Station, Antarctica, 1972/73. Please see the post below this for more details.

Transport around the Dry Valleys of Victoria land is by helicopter

Ready to board a helicopter

Vanda Station flagpole

Vanda Station's main hut was a JCB packing case

Laurie Cairns (surveyor); Jim Fowler (Station Leader 1973/73 Season)

Servicing the hydrology weir of the Onyx River,

a river comprising glacial meltwater

that flows only in the summer months

The tractor was vital for transporting ice from Lake Vanda

to the station to melt for drinking water

Local trips around the Wright Valley

were made in this vehicle we called a "Gnat"

Is there a blizzard on the way?

Or maybe it is a photographer!

Maalie in Antarctica

2011-03-31T03:59:00.000-07:00

During the early 1970s I was privileged to serve as the Leader of a remote Antarctic field station in the Ross Dependency, administered by the then New Zealand Antarctic Research Programme (now known as Antarctica New Zealand. The Ross Dependency lies due south of New Zealand and transport there was by flying from Christchurch, New Zealand directly to McMurdo Sound.

The Ross Dependency, Antarctica.

Arrival was at McMurdo Sound and then to Scott Base (far right).

Vanda Station is a helicopter ride to the Wright Valley (left).

My station, Vanda Station, was a small field station housing 3 - 8 scientists, normally for a summer season, located at the east end of Lake Vanda in the Wright Valley (see map above). The Wright Valley is within a system of essentially snow-free valleys in Victoria Land known as the Dry Valleys.
(There are many excellent pictures of the Dry Valleys here).

Lake Vanda in the Wright Valley, Victoria land, Ross dependency, Antarctica

Vanda Station is at the end of the frozen lake, bottom right.

(For internet picture source click here)

The remaining images are scans of my own prints, taken in Antarctica nearly 40 years ago.

The ice-free Dry Valleys of Victoria Land resemble more of a moonscape

than a conventional image of Antarctica.

The tiny Vanda Station is arrowed

Vanda Station is a collection of wooden huts -

formerly JCB packing cases!

Vanda Station team 1972-73 Summer Season

Mike Miles (Technician); Jim Fowler (Leader); Ian Brown (Meteorologist)

Meteorology was one of the prime research investigations at Vanda Station.

Maalie records observations at the station's Stevenson Screen

Hydrology and glaciology are also important.

The summer sun causes glacial melt-water to form the Onyx River

that flows along the valley floor into Lake Vanda.

Measuring glacial melt and the river flow provides

vital evidence about climate change.

Note that the hanging glaciers on the sides of the valleys

in the background almost reach the valley floor .

Maalie examines a seal that has lost its way from the coast

and has become dessicated and mummified

A present-day picture of the Wright Valley

Notice how the hanging glaciers (projecting in from top and bottom)

scarcely reach into the valley itself.

Compare with the picture of the river (above) that was taken 40 years ago.

Tangible evidence of climate warming?

Ostara with Przewalski's Horse

2011-03-19T12:17:00.000-07:00

Ostara is the Festival of the Spring Equinox, celebrated on 21st March. Now, the days are growing longer than the nights, until the Summer Solstice. I am celebrating Ostara in style in the Seewinkel National Park in Burgenland, Austria, where there is a breeding programme for the very rare Przewalski's Horse.

Przewalski's Horse is declared "Extinct in the Wild"

The horse was discovered in the steppes of the Gobi Desert in 1879 by Colonel Nikolai Przewalski, who took bones he found during his explorations back to the University of St Petersburg. There, zoologists confirmed it as 'a species new to science', and named it after the Colonel-explorer.

The ancestor of the modern horse

Biologists consider the species to be the ancestor of the modern horse. Sadly, they were victims of over-hunting for meat and competition with people for habitat; in 1970 it was declared "extinct in the wild". However, the gene pool is preserved in coordinated captive breeding programmes around the world, and re-introduction of animals back into the wild has already begun.

Conservation breeding programme -

these two look like they are getting on with it!

In the Seewinkel National Park, the horses are also part of a habitat management scheme in which their grazing maintains the biodiverstiy of the plant life.

Grazing by the horses is important for grassland management

in the Seewinkel National Park

Thanks to the breeding programme
their descendants may be safe for the future

A Happy Ostara to all my Readers!

Illmitz comes to Askam

2011-03-15T00:40:00.000-07:00

It was my pleasure to welcome my friends Helmut and Katharina from Illmitz, Burgenland, Austria, to Maalie Court for a few days. Illmitz is on the border of Austria and Hungary close to the Seewinkel National Park where I go to conduct birds surveys.

The visit coincides with the blooming of the very first daffodils,

for which Cumbria is noteworthy from the poetry of William Wordsworth

Helmut and Katharina enjoy the view of Esthwaite Water,

their first lake in the Lake District

Soon they are observing the local bird life

Negotiating a bridge over the beck at Crummock Water

The dry stone walls, characteristic of the north of England,

is a source of fascination

Buttermere is reputed to be the most attractive scenery in England

And what better way to end a day exploring in the Lake District

than to sample a pint of Real Ale in the Black Dog pub

When the wild swans fly...

2011-03-10T12:39:00.000-08:00

As the spring equinox draws inexorably closer, March is transition time for wildlife. There are still reminders of winter, but also strong signs of spring. Summer migrant birds have already arrived on the southern shores of Britain, whilst in Cumbria, a very few spring flowers have dared to open their petals in sheltered sun-traps on south-facing banks.

Crocuses give a splash of colour to the hedgerow

A delicate primrose dares to show, defying night-time frosts

Summer migrant birds have not yet reached Cumbria, but some of our winter-visitors are hanging on, preparing to depart soon, to head north to their tundra breeding grounds. I visited Martin Mere wetland wildfowl refuge to see some of the last wild geese and swans from the observation hides before they leave.

On the surrounding pastures, hundreds of Pink-footed Geese

look restless as think about getting on their way

A colourful male Brambling fattens up at a bird feeder

before departing for Lapland

On the mere, groups of wild Whooper Swans face into the wind,

perhaps waiting for one or two more food handouts before migrating to Iceland

Some pairs of Whooper Swans are already "getting in the mood",

engaged in their synchronised courtship display

"Farewell, I'm leaving soon; see you next winter!"

Windermere - quest for Bownessie

2011-02-24T12:53:00.000-08:00

At just over 11 miles (18 km) long, Windermere is the largest natural lake in England. It was formed after the retreat of ice at the end of the last Ice Age.

Aerial picture of Windermere

Internet picture source here

There are a number of reports over the years of a large aquatic animal (possible prehistoric) that inhabits the lake. The Windermere creature has been named Bownessie, hybridising the name of a village on Windermere (Bowness) and Nessie (the Loch Ness Monster of Scotland). A recent report (with photograph) prompted me to spend a few hours kayaking around Windermere today, to see what I could find...

A recent photograph of Bownessie.

Read the full report in the Daily Telegraph here.

Looking north up Windermere through the channel between

Belle Isle (right) and the west shore of Windermere

Windermere is a very popular place for boating and

water leisure activities of many kinds

But who wants to be a tourist...

And who wants to be a millionaire...

When I can paddle off in my own little boat with perfect freedom...

...quietly, close to the banks of the islands,

sliding under the overhanging trees in shallow water

watching the wildlife...

...and choose my own little island to pull ashore
to brew a pot of tea with a picnic lunch...

Provided that it is not right underneath the Cormorant colony!

So, did I find Bownessie? No.
Not this time...

Nigella's Kitchen

2011-02-21T09:32:00.000-08:00

There is no doubt that domestic goddess Nigella Lawson is one of Britain's most popular television celebrity chefs. Personally, I have made a number of culinary choices under her influence.

Nigella Lawson slaving in her kitchen

I study her cookery programmes avidly, and have picked up a number of tips. I visited my favourite kitchen hardware shop (Dolings in Barrow-in-Furness) and asked for "one of those things that Nigella uses in her TV show". The kind manageress immediately found what I was looking for: it's called a mezzaluna .

Nigella shows off her... errm, her mezzaluna

Then a friend told me that in order for it to work properly, I needed a special mezzaluna board. This is like a normal chopping board, but has the centre chiselled out to make a depression corresponding to the radius of the mezzaluna. I searched in Amazon and was delighted to find that Nigella has created her very own board which I immediately bought, and it was delivered today.

My very own mezzaluna and mezzaluna board

direct from Nigella's kitchen (it says so on the box).

Now I shall cook like Nigella.

Nigella Lawson pours herself a drink...

...before taking a well-earned break

after slaving over a hot stove all day

(Pictures of Nigella Lawson in this post are from the internet)

There is a demonstration (not by Nigella)
of how to use a mezzaluna in the clip below

Thirlmere

2011-02-13T03:02:00.000-08:00

Thirlmere is a reservoir that was created in 1889 by flooding a valley to merge two smaller lakes into one in order to supply drinking water to Manchester. Two villages were "drowned" in the process. I decided to explore the lake by kayak on a mild, calm, February day.

Thirlmere is 3.5 miles long.

I launched some somewhere below the bush in the foreground

and paddled to the far end of the lake, passing the small islands.

For internet picture source click here

I launch at dawn while patchy fog-banks

still enshroud parts of the lake

The fog-banks give a mysterious look to the lake...

...and some ethereal scenes.

A swollen beck pours from the fell into Thirlmere

Reaching the head of Thirlmere

I pull ashore for a snack

before the 3-mile paddle back

After lunch the fog has lifted enough

to reveal the summit of Helvellyn,

England's second highest mountain

By mid-afternoon the fog has gone and

sunshine through the cumulus clouds

illuminates the surrounding mountains

You can read more about Thirlmere here

Catkins

2011-02-10T12:39:00.000-08:00

Hazel catkins in late winter sunshine

at Roudsea Woods and Mosses National Nature Reserve

Imbolc, Askam and Badger

2011-01-31T11:14:00.000-08:00

Imbolc is the festival that falls half-way between the Winter Solstice (Yule) and the Spring Equinox (Ostara). Imbolc has existed for centuries until it was renamed Candlemas by the Christians. Traditionally it is celebrated on 1-2 February but, as usual with these festivals, nobody minds if the celebrations are extended a few days on either side.

Imbolc is not Spring, but it may be the herald of Spring. We may expect to see the first catkins dangling in thin sunshine, and the first snowdrops in bloom.

Above all, it marks a noticeable lengthening of the daylight, the time when thoughts turn to cleaning agricultural tools, sewing early seeds and checking if the pregnant ewes are safely through the worst of winter.

This year I was honoured to have my Australian

friend and fellow blogger Badger*,

(who presently lives in Vienna)

visit me in Maalie Court, Askam-in-Furness,

to share the Imbolc Festivities.

One of our Imbolc celebratory suppers.

Badger is speechless with amazement that an Englishman

can cook such an appetising looking pike pie

The foreshore of Askam-in-Furness is dominated by

salt marsh, where boats are hauled up

into the creeks for the winter;

Or simply left to die.

Badger takes a stroll around the salt-marsh...

...and takes some 'arty-farty' pictures

of decaying boats

Badger steers us into the Queens Arms pub

for an Imbolc pint of Cumbria Ale.

Or was it two?

I find the first Snowdrops of the year in to time

to mark the Festival of Imbolc

A Very Happy Imbolc

to all my Readers

You may light any candle stubs left over from Yuletide

to keep the Ghosties away

*You may discover more about Badger and his blog here

The Piel Triangle

2011-01-21T13:55:00.000-08:00

The stretch of water between Walney Island and the Furness Peninsula of the Cumbria Mainland is subject to fast-flowing tidal currents as the huge volume of water from Morecambe Bay surges through it during the flood and ebb tides. There is one particular area at the mouth of the channel, known as the Piel Triangle, where the currents and tide rips can be particularly ferocious during the highest tides and is referred to by some locals as the Devil's Cauldron.

Morecambe bay and the Furness Peninsula showing the location of the

Piel Triangle at the mouth of the Walney Channel

The dreaded Piel Triangle lies at the mouth of the Walney Channel
and encloses the water between three islands.

Piel Island from Foulney Island.
The channel looks benign enough at low tide.

Piel Castle (at the left end) was built in 1212 when King John allowed

the monks to store provisions there (including gunpowder, it is said).

Roa Island from Foulney Island.
The lifeboat station is testimony to the
reputation of the Piel Triangle.
Coastguard cottages catch the afternoon winter sunlight.

During a fine settled (though cold) period of weather I
was tempted to paddle out into the Piel Triangle in my FeelFree Nomad Kayak
and pit my skills against whatever the dreaded Cauldron could throw at me.

Ready to launch from the slipway on Roa Island

Venturing out into the centre of the Piel Triangle,

the sea seems calm enough during slack water at high tide.

Nudging closer to a channel marker buoy,
with Piel Castle in the background,
the ebb flow started almost without warning.
I found myself having to paddle vigorously to make small headway

Eventually I found refuge in the stiller backwater
towards the old coastguard station
and coastguard cottages on Roa island

Vaga Luna - Lovely Moon

2011-01-19T02:57:00.000-08:00

Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto and moon

Illmitz, Burgenland

At the Summer Solstice 2010

Click on the arrow to hear Cecilia Bartoli singing Vaga Luna by Bellini

Vaga luna, che inargenti
queste rive e questi fiori
ed inspiri agli elementi
il linguaggio dell'amor;
testimonio or sei tu sola
del mio fervido desir,
ed a lei che m'innamora
conta i palpiti e i sospir.

Lovely moon, you who shed silver light
On these shores and on these flowers
And breathe the language
Of love to the elements,
You are now the sole witness
Of my ardent longing,
And can recount my throbs and sighs
To her who fills me with love.

Mereside Chronicle

2011-01-02T02:44:00.000-08:00

A tribute to Charles F Tunnicliffe (1901 - 1979)

When I was a very small Maalie, my sister gave me a book that had a life-changing influence on me: Mereside Chronicle by C F Tunnicliffe, naturalist and artist. His book records his observations and sketches through the year at various meres and water bodies around his home near Macclesfield, Cheshire.

Even at the tender age at which I read the book, its impact was to impress on me the discipline of making regular observations, and recording them. The book was published in 1948 and therefore the pictures show scenes as they existed at least 63 years ago. My aim on this rather misty-murky New Year's Eve was to try to locate and photograph some of the scenes depicted by Tunnicliffe.

Capesthorne Pools
Capethorne Pools are old fish ponds associated with Capesthorne Hall

There can be no doubt about which tree Tunnicliffe was depicting in his drawing (above): although the tree has grown thicker in the ensuing 65 years, the individual branches can be recognised.

The arches of the bridge across these old fish ponds appear through the fog

My sister Jill sits on the parapet of the bridge

once again holding the book she gave me so many years ago

Redesmere

Redesmere is a reservoir that was clearly one of Tunnicliffe's favourite places. Unfortunately the foggy whether did not permit some of the scenic views but nevertheless some features were clearly recognisable.

The road has been widened and a car park constructed, but the Henbury Road leading down to Redesmere

can be recognised from Tunnicliffe's drawing

Despite the fog concealing the mere, Tunnicliffe's white railings remain.

However the un-eroded state of the concrete posts

suggest the fence has been replaced

Further along we find an old dilapidated, eroded section of fence

which no doubt dates back to Tunnicliffe's era

Gawsworth Pools

The Gawsworth Pools are old fish ponds associated with Gawsworth Hall. With the church and buildings still present, it was easy to relocate the scenes of Tunnicliffe's sketches

The growth of vegetation around the church has changed, but the view is clear

At the Upper Pool the sign has changed and the square building has an extension

North Rode Pool

North Rode Pool seems to have changed very little since Tunnicliffe's day.

The outlet shaft and white house at the far end of the pool are still present

To find out more about the life and work of this remarkable birdwatcher and artist,
you can visit the website of the Charles Tunnicliffe Society

A Merry kayaking Christmas!

2010-12-25T04:33:00.000-08:00

Christmas Eve in Cumbria was so fine and sunny I launched my kayak near Bootle on the west coast of Cumbria. With a light northerly and gentle swell, launching from the stony beach was not difficult.

I paddled out to the pole mark you can see near the horizon
and moored there for a while fishing. No luck though.

With the midday sunshine shining brightly it was almost warm!

Black Combe has a snowy mantle.

Sorry about the wonky horizon, the boat was actually tossing around in the swell

On Christmas morning, some clouds had rolled in and the temperature was -10.5 C. I was on Coniston Water by 8.00am, with Venus still shining brightly!

Boats moored on Coniston Water emerge eerily from the dawn mist

on Christmas morning

The sun rises behind the mountains and drives off the mist

Like an explorer sailing towards the Pole, I eventually encounter the pack ice.

Without a strengthened hull I was reluctant to penetrate the ice -

I did not want to risk becoming a "Coniston Shackleton"

and become ice-bound for the rest of the winter!

The rising sun illuminates the slopes of the Old Man of Coniston

With my fishing rod already iced up, and my toesies freezled,

I pull ashore for my Christmas breakfast.

And I assure you there is something a little more appropriate
than tea in the glog mug ;-)

Solstice eclipse and Arctic birds

2010-12-20T08:28:00.000-08:00

A very Happy Winter Solstice to all my readers!

In Britain we are experiencing a particularly cold period with day-time temperatures staying well below zero. The cold weather is pushing a number of Arctic migrant birds south and west into Europe and for the first time in 400 years there is a Solstice total eclipse of the moon in Britain.

I am up and out in time to greet the Solstice dawn over my village

For the first time in 400 years, the Winter Solstice sees a total eclipse of the moon

in Britain. The Earth's shadow is crossing the moon prior to totality, just before sunrise

At total eclipse the moon takes on a coppery hue,

but is already setting in the haze of the horizon

Ice floes on the River Leven estuary - the first time I have seen

the sea freeze over since I have been living in Cumbria

A Redwing seeks out the few remaining haw-berries

(The bold eye-stripe distinguishes it from other thrush species)

A Fieldfare, possibly south from Lapland

A pair of Fieldfares seek warmth in the weak Solstice sunshine

A Waxwing from Bohemia (or further north and east)

The Waxwing secures a nutritious haw-berry in its bill

From today, the sun commences its sojourn back to the Northern Hemisphere.

I wish you joy in anticipation of warmer, brighter days to come.

Seewinkel in Winter's icy grip

2010-12-18T08:47:00.000-08:00

I think it is very likely that I was the only person counting birds in the frozen Seewinkel National Park on the Austria-Hungary border on a weekday, just four days before the Winter Solstice! The bird species diversity there in winter is a tiny fraction of that in summer; however, every biological record is valuable, and there are always exciting things to see. I could certainly not have watched three See Eagles feasting on a dead swan if I had stayed at home!

Balls of mistletoe are starkly visible on the denuded deciduous trees

Even the Einserkanal starts to freeze over and the Andau Bridge

looks very different now to how it did during my last visit

Lake Neusiedl is frozen over...

...while the cycle track at Sandeck is more like a skating rink!
The watchtower is a relic of the Cold war

A pair of Hooded crows find something to eat during a snow flurry...

...but the sun is trying hard to show itself through the snow clouds

On a winter afternoon the setting sun illuminates the inflorescences

of reeds in the Seewinkel National Park

HMS Victory

2010-12-11T02:59:00.000-08:00

During a recent visit to my elder son's family near the naval town of Portsmouth, we took an opportunity to visit with friends the Christmas Market in the historical dockyards, open to the public that weekend. For me it was an opportunity to see again my favourite ship HMS Victory, Admiral Lord Nelson’s flagship. HMS Victory is best known for her role in the Battle of Trafalgar, and The Victory currently serves both as the flagship of the Commander-in-Chief of Naval Home Command and as a living museum.

The children arrive at Portsmouth Docks railway station

Even the carousel has a nautical theme with the figure-head of an old sailing ship

HMS Victory - flagship of the Commander-in-Chief of
Naval Home Command and a living museum

The stern view, with the windows of Admiral Lord Nelson's cabin

The bow view, and the maintenance of all that rigging,
especially in heavy seas, defies the imagination!

Here is an account of my previous visit to HMS Victory

Cecilia Bartoli

2010-12-05T02:20:00.000-08:00

Thanks to a very generous birthday present from my dear sister I saw my favourite mezzo-soprano Cecilia Bartoli singing in concert in the Bridgewater Hall, Manchester, on 3rd December. She was accompanied by the Basel Chamber Orchestra.

The circle foyer of the modern Bridgewater Hall in Manchester

In addition to performing in "conventional" opera, Cecila Bartoli has devoted her career to exploring and performing the works of lesser-known and forgotten composers. For example, in the last concert that I attended she sang some compositions of Antonio Salieri that may not have been publicly heard for 200 years.

Currently, Cecilia Bartoli is performing the music of a number of compositions for the voices of the castrati in a programme called Sacrificium, a word that reflects the sacrifice of some 4000 boys that used to be mutilated in Italy every year during the 1770s onwards.

"Due to their superhuman physical nature, their unusually thorough training and their immense talent, you might say that what these singers sang was probably some of the best music written at the time. Since it stretches the limits of your own abilities it bis also a great personal challenge for a modern interpreter - especially a woman". Cecilia Bartoli

Cecilia Bartoli sings to the accompaniment of the

Basel Chamber Orchestra (leader Jülia Schröder)

Trio Concerto for mezzo-soprano and two flutes

Cecilia Bartoli sings a flamboyant encore

Cecilia Bartoli had her devoted audience in tears with her

sensitive rendering of Handel's Lascia la spina

Leave the thorn, Pluck the rose;

You are seeking your own sorrow.

An unseen hand will bring you

Hoary old age

Ere your heart imagines.

The Triple Harp Mission

2010-11-30T06:39:00.000-08:00

The Triple Harp is the classical Welsh harp. It is characterised by having three rows of strings (rather than one), the third row (set between the two outside rows) is tuned to the semi-tones, eliminating the need for keys or pedals. It is notoriously difficult to play. My younger son Carwyn has played the small Celtic harp (or "knee-harp") for years and has long set his sights on extending his repertoire with a triple harp. The mission was to meet him in Wales to collect such a harp which had just been restored.

I wake to a fine dawn at high tide on the Welsh coast

The rendez-vous is John Thomas' harp restoration workshop

Carwyn meets his new Triple Harp,

a fine pedigree instrument, some 150 years old

Three rows of strings with accordingly three rows of tuning pins

Tuning so many strings takes some time...

...before I witness the first melody to issue from this harp in a great many years

World Premiere: Carwyn performs at his first 'gig' on his new harp

the very same evening!

My visit occurred about the time of granddaughter Heledd's third birthday.

What is in a the parcel?

Heledd is very impressed with her new Jack-in- the-box!

Visit Carwyn's website

Rydal Water in November

2010-11-20T09:51:00.000-08:00

Rydal Water is one of the smaller of Cumbria's Lakes, surrounded by hills and woods. I decided to launch my kayak for a day's fishing soon after dawn on a beautiful calm November morning. Launching is from the car park at the north end of the lake into the river Rydal Beck and then a quarter of a mile drift downstream into the lake itself.

I approach Rydal Water with the morning mists still shrouding the hills

Mirror-calm conditions are ideal for exploring the lake and its little islands

By mid-morning the mists have evaporated and thin winter sunshine reveals itself

I manage to boat a decent pike weighing 7lb 3oz (3.2kg)

I reckon six servings from this fish!

By mid-afternoon the sun slips behind the hills

A moulted swan feather is trapped in some weed

Fishing in Rydal Water in by permit only. Day permits can be purchased on-line this the Lake District Fishing website.

Bridge to Freedom

2010-11-17T04:26:00.000-08:00

The Einserkanal marks the border of Austria and Hungary,

the division between Europe's former "East and West".

Sunset over Hungary on the left bank of the Einserkanal

A watchtower is preserved as a stark reminder of the
infamous "Iron Curtain" of the Cold War

In 1956 Hungary was invaded by Russian troops and some 165,000 refugees

crossed a footbridge into Austria where they received freedom
and a welcome and became fully integrated

The original bridge was destroyed by the Russians to curtail the evacuation;

after the fall of communism this replica was built in its place as a memorial

to those who perished in their bid for freedom

The covered bridge catches the final rays of the setting sun...

...when the rising mists of dusk gather along the Einserkanal.

Burgenland

2010-11-04T10:46:00.000-07:00

Maalie is off to Eastern Europe for a few days to his favourite place in Burgenland.

You can find pictures from previous visits to Burgenland here and here and here and here.

Loch Fyne

2010-10-29T00:49:00.000-07:00

Loch Fyne is the largest of the Argyll sea lochs, being several miles wide in places, and I left until last to explore. Loch Fyne is famous for its kippers and its oysters.

Loch Fyne looking seaward on an Autumn afternoon,

just as the sun is starting to burn off the hill mist

I decided to launch at the little village of Otter Ferry, near the mouth of the loch. The location is indicated by the green arrow in the map in the post below this.

At Otter Ferry: can you see the distant structure on the horizon,

just to the right of my boat's flag?

That is a navigation mark which indicates the start of the inner section of Loch Fyne.

It lies 1.2 miles (2km) out from the shore and to reach it would represent the furthest I have ever paddled out from the shore...

Should I attempt the voyage?

I set off and look over my shoulder at the the village of Otter Ferry.

The larger building is The Oystercatcher pub and oyster bar,

renowned for serving the freshest oysters straight out of the loch

After half an hour's steady paddling, I round the mark.

You can just make out the white houses of Otter Ferry on the shore.

Back on shore, I visit The Oystercatcher pub

A challenging environment, a 4x4 car, a tent, a boat, a fishing rod,

a pub, pint of good ale and a plate of oysters.

What more could a man possibly want!

The sea lochs of Argyll

2010-10-25T08:15:00.000-07:00

I reported the first part of my kayaking adventure on the lochs of Argyll, Scotland, on Loch Lomond, here. From there, I continued to the west coast to explore the sea lochs, in particular Loch Long, Loch Goil and Loch Fyne. The sea lochs are valleys ground out by glaciation in the last Ice Age and where the glaciers flowed into the sea, long deep tidal inlets (rather like the Norwegian fjords) were created.

The sea lochs of Argyll:

Black arrow Loch Long; Red arrow Loch Goil; Green arrow Loch Fyne

Loch Long

Loch Long. I like to paddle my kayak quietly along the shore at the edge of the

kelp beds - who know what secrets may lurk there

A curious passer by - maybe it is the Seal of Approval

I was able to use the current to drift to within six feet of this winter-plumaged Guillemot

A Shag hauls out to dry on a disused herring wharf

Loch Goil

I launch at the head of Loch Goil on a calm but murky morning, at the point of the red arrow in the map above. Five miles south-east (almost where it joins Loch Long) is the settlement of Castle Carrick. To aim for this castle would be the longest kayak trip I had ever undertaken. Should I dare go for it?

Carrick Castle looms out of the mist - nearly there!

I pull ashore and take a picture to prove I made it!
(There is some history of the castle here)

Although late in the season, there were still some mackerel

to be caught in the sea lochs.

These fish made me a fine supper, filleted and fried on my Trangia camping stove.

Then it was on to Loch Fyne - and that story is for the next post!

Mists and mellow fruitfullness...

2010-10-22T02:27:00.000-07:00

October in Cumbria

Streets paved with gold.

My research site at Roudsea Woods and Mosses National Nature Reserve

Hawthorn

Holly

Spindle

Bracket fungi

Yew